(Daniel) After the last weeks trekking in Laos, the next logical destination should have been Vietnam. My original plan had been to miss Cambodia out, having experienced the country in depth on a previous trip, and aware that the Expedition’s time in South East Asia is running out.  Prior to this morning, I had announced my intention to head for Thailand.  In truth however, the decision still lay in the balance as we sat down for breakfast in a Chinese run guesthouse, which given the towns size made up a full 25% of the towns possible eateries.

The previous trip to Cambodia had been marked by rough roads and hard to reach destinations, whereas my memories of Vietnam were of an almost sterilized atmosphere.  The few Vietnamese who I did hear speak from the heart were dunk, when a dark loathing for America would appear in their tone.  But Asia is changing fast, everywhere I have been here has shown huge leaps forward, from traffic and transport systems to amenities and education.  Modernisation is taking over here, the people are lapping it up. The effect of which, is that the quality of life is improving as a result of changes that are taking place.  The native people of each country are abandoning old principles and beliefs to adopt a more efficient lifestyle.  One can’t help but wonder if the only reason they make the change is to keep up with other countries in the modern world.

If Thailand could change so much, and with Laos showing the early signs of becoming a resort destination soon. What would Cambodia and Vietnam be like now.  Surely Vietnam was well into that change before now, but Cambodia had been a scary place limited by the times and places you could safely travel in.  I elected to return to Cambodia via Thailand, after a stop in Chiang Mai, driving back to Bangkok to arrange an American visa for Nii, maybe pick up some speargun parts before continuing to Koh Chang for some a chance to catch up on my desperately behind diaries whilst camping on the beach.  After that we would try Cambodia, then progress to Vietnam, this would only leave me a few weeks to see Cambodia, then under a month more to cross Vietnam and arrange shipping from there to Los Angeles.

With Mum and Nii on Board I drove out onto the road to the Thai border, which last time around had a taken a full two days of Bus’s and off road riding in pick up trucks.  Things had changed, or at least they were just about to.  The new two lane highway was almost finished, perfect stretches of empty road allowed us to keep an average speed of 100km/h.  Every now and then we would pass road crews who would all stand up and wave at us cheering as we drove past.  The beautiful tribal villages that had lain undisturbed some distance from the old track, now lay exposed to the roads view, the people still showered and worked away in the open, I wondered how long it would take the trucks and cars passing through to move them on, or change their lives forever.

We arrived at the border, after dropping down from a high mountain ridge spanned by the new road.  In the sparse town we stopped at a market to spend the last of our money.  Whilst selecting some fresh vegetables and dried foods for the trailer I spotted a cage of beautiful birds.  I asked about their purpose. “Frying.”  The stall holder, an old Laos lady who spoke with a Thai accent, simply exclaimed.  In Thailand, and Laos, the purchasing and releasing of animals, especially birds symbolizes good Karma. The birds cost 50 cents each, so I bought three.  Mum and Nii loved the idea when I explained.  We walked out to the car park, where each one of us let a bird go free.  Thanks for the wonderful times in Laos, and a prayer for more of the same to come!  

At the docks, we were turned around by the gateman, he directed us back into the town to carry out the immigration requirements.  Having done this many times before, I wanted to fill out the carnet first, at the town office however, the immigration police told me that the customs was back at the dock.  Frustrated, I returned to the dock, only to find that the last boat was just about to leave.  In my rush to get Mum and Nii back to immigration, I drove over a chicken crossing the road.  The full size chicken disappeared entirely, replaced by a feathery blood stain on the tarmac.  The chicken had run out under my rear wheel, so it had not really been my fault at all.  I would however return to this place after the immigration sign us out to try and reimburse the poor owner.

As we pulled up in the street outside I realised that there was no point in attempting to cross the river today, we would be better off to get some dinner inside us, and stay in a hotel for the night before heading to Chiang Mai tomorrow.  Mum and Nii agreed, we drove back to the place where I had killed the chicken.  After asking around, the man who owned the chicken told us that accidents happen, and it was not our problem to pay for.  I insisted, but he wouldn’t take a bean.

The hotel that we stayed in was a welcome change to sleeping on the hard tribal beds of Muang Sing and Muang Long.  I decided that we were probably due a spot of luxury, especially my Mum, who had obviously never seen trekking quite like that before!  

going to bed.

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