Jan 19th – Cappadocia

(Daniel) The most amazing views greeted us as we emerged from the tents. As soon as the sun had risen properly, the nights cold air was dispelled.  Gabby had planned for us to visit the open air museum, so we drove into town and grabbed some bread before returning to the Museum for breakfast.  We ate Nutella on a lovely local flat bread that rowan had found.  This was easier said than done, as Nutella doesn’t behave very well when it’s only just above freezing.  Nonetheless we ate the chunks of chocolate spread, and walked across the road from the car park to the Museum.

Waking up in Goreme
Parking in style outside the open air museum, Goreme

Inside was our first proper taste of the way that people here once lived.  A valley floor, filled with cave dwellings, tombs and churches, still very much intact.  Some of the Churches still had the remains of bodies in the graves which lined the doorways.  The only other people there were a group of Japanese tourists, desperately trying to photograph everything in the hour that they had, before getting back on the bus to the next place on their itinerary.  Gabby, Rowan and I walked at a much more leisurely pace, taking in the amazing frescos in the churches and climbing into the caves to get true a feel of this unique environment.

Houses in the open air museum
Churches built into the rock, now exposed
Frescos Painted in the roof of cave churches
Graves in the doorways of Churches some with remains still inside
Primitive paintings from the dawn of christianity
Beautiful panoramic landscapes of Goreme

After we had looked all around the museum, we crossed back over the road, but decided to walk up past the car to the valley behind, this valley is called the Sword valley, and although it is not in such intact condition as the open air museum, it still has thousands of caves, with nothing and no-one to stop you exploring to your hearts content.  We walked around for an hour or so, climbing in and out of the caves, and taking photos before heading back to the town for lunch.  We found a really great restaurant, where the chef prepares pizzas in a stone oven, in a very Turkish style, they tasted great, and I recommend them to anyone visiting!

Exploring the caves in the sword valley
On the top of the valley side
Lunch- Pizza, Turkish style!

After lunch we jumped back in the Wolf, and drove to another town about 50km away where a large underground city is located.  These cities were built for the inhabitants of the region to take shelter during times of war. They could live down there for long periods at a time without having to go above ground.  This city had 8 levels and was absolutely huge, with tunnels stretching on for miles.  We were offered the chance of a guide, but declined, preferring to explore on our own.  It wasn’t much trouble getting around, as there were arrows in most corridors telling you which way you were going, and the other passages that weren’t marked were mainly blocked, although I did find a few unlit passages to wander down, but kept having to turn back, as a member of our party wasn’t too happy about the light/ space situation.  After an hour or so we emerged again, and drove back to Goreme.  On the way back, we stopped at a small town located on a hill overlooking Goreme, and drove from there to a Cave Pension where you can sleep in the caves but done out in a luxury style with hot water and central heating.  We negotiated a good price and agreed that we would check in the next day.

Shortcut back to the carpark
Visit to the underground city
Stop at the hilltop village
Booking into the Kellbeck cave pension for tomorrow

Back at the campsite, the temperature was dropping rapidly, and so I went in search of firewood.  This is not easy in the arid conditions, and I soon found myself back in the town looking to buy some.  However, no-one could help me, as they were all in the same situation.  But I kept getting the same answer, “if you drive into the desert, and see a dead tree, then just take it” I didn’t like the sound of this, but after four people had advised me the same thing, I decided to take a look.  So driving back past the campsite, I drove out into the desert on the small track that intersected its landscape.  After taking one track and nearly driving of a cliff in the dark, I thought this may a better excursion on foot, so I took the truck back, and walked off into the desert with my head torch and axe.

All the trees seemed very much alive, except one, about 3 meters tall which was quite obviously dead, infact, if I had pushed hard enough I think that it would have cracked and fallen down.  But I took the axe to it and after a few minutes and a lot of sweat was dragging it back to camp.  There I cut it into different size pieces with the hatchet and got a fire going.  It was just in time as the temperature really dropped then, and we ate our dinner of halibut and vegetables sat around it.  After this we had a couple more beers from the snow fridge, and then went to bed.

Excellent campfire, just don't ask where I got the wood!

Distance driven 80miles