Jan 15th – Istanbul, Turkey…

(Daniel) Gabby & Rowan had to go to the Iranian Embassy this morning, so I took the chance to get some more of the diary updated.  They came back at about 10.30am and told me that their Visas would be ready the next morning. We then walked to the Palace Museum which was only a few minutes away from the hotel. 

Aiya Sofia
Entrance to the Grand Palace in Istanbul

The Museum was amazing, but I was a little perplexed.  I visited the museum about 10 years ago on another trip to Turkey, and was amazed to see artefacts such as John the Baptists hand, wrapped in gold and still recognizable through a small hatch in the gold plating.  Diamonds as big as a fist, some 70 carats, and other precious gems by the bowlful.  These amazing and priceless artefacts were displayed in poorly lit cases with minimal security.  Given these basic precautions, I had little faith in these items being genuine.  This time however, here were the same items, displayed in much nicer cases, and surrounded by guards, who looked very young and inexperienced.  I still find it hard to believe that John the Baptists hand is sitting in a room in Istanbul, and even less likely that after 2000 years it still looks so hand-like, with the remains of flesh on the bones.  Perhaps this is a two fingered message to the Christians of the world?  I don’t profess to be very knowledgeable on such things, but surely if his hand still exists, shouldn’t it be baptising some lucky souls somewhere??  Anyway, I apologise profoundly for my doubts if they are unfounded, but I certainly had my doubts again as we walked out of the Museum today!  

Leaving the Grand Palace, heading for the Blue Mosque

After the Palace, we walked down the street to the amazing Grand Bazaar, an underground shopping precinct hundreds of years old, and spanning a huge area under the city, with over 1400 hundred business’ crammed into is tiled walkways and arches.  We took lunch there, a Chicken Kebab with Chilli and other herbs, this was and still is one of the best Kebabs which I have had in Turkey, and at only 2 euros, was also the cheapest.  We didn’t buy anything, but wandered around for a few hours, taking in the amazing underground streets which have changed very little over the hundreds of years since they were made.

One of the main entrances to the Grand Bazaar
Another smaller street in the Bazaar
Lamps for sale in the bazaar
Evil eyes for sale, meant to ward off evil spirits
Turkish flags for sale in every size imaginable!
Amazing lamps!
More beautiful lamps
Eating the street kebab in the bazaar
Baclava for sale outside the Bazaar

The Con?…

After the Bazaar, we walked back to the hotel for a rest, and then across the river to a posh area of Istanbul near Taksim Square, here the people were very fashionable, and all the modern shops just like any other city in Europe.  We found a great street full of wonderful bars and sat down to a few beers.  After this I decided to have a walk on my own, and Rowan and Gabby headed back to the hotel.

As I was walking home, a couple of young guys approached me, asking where I was from. Although I am aware of cons and scams, I am often open to speaking to people. In this case the two very young guys seemed so interested in what I was doing, and where I was going. They asked me to join them for some dinner at a local restaurant.

I could see from the way they were acting, that something was not right. They were too friendly, and were showing off, pretending they knew what I was talking about. I couldn’t put my finger on the feeling, but they were just too interested. The local restaurant turned out to be more of a fine dining place, and a huge feast came out in multiple courses. At the end, the boys would not let me pay, despite my genuine protests.

They asked if I would join them for a drink, and at this time, I sensed a potential sting in the tail of this situation. The curiosity, and perhaps a little naivety got the better of me, so I followed them to the bar. Down a dark staircase, past some very serious looking bouncers, we entered what looked like a strip club, but there wasn’t a soul in there. The boys over acted their surprise, and said “looks like we are first here, no problem, it will be busy soon!” Having been bought dinner, I felt an obligation to buy the drinks, but when the server passed the menu, there were no prices on it.

At this stage, I realised then it was time to go. I didn’t make excuses, I just got up and walked straight out. The boys jumped up and followed, but I was out of the booth and up the stairs before they caught me.

They desperately wanted me to stay, but I offered them to come to my hotel, with a promise of drinks and many other people to hang out with. They weren’t interested, and looked like they might lose their cool. I had got the feeling all along that something wasn’t right, but also that their hearts weren’t in whatever they were doing. Suddenly a taxi pulled into the street behind them, and I flagged it down and jumped inside, much to the surprise of the two boys. The last words I said, was about having travelled a lot, and knowing when something wasn’t right. Then I shut the door, and the taxi drove quickly away. By the way the driver pulled off, I got the feeling that the old man knew what was going on.

Back at the hotel, Rowan and Gabby had gone to bed, and I had a drink alone in the bar. I wondered what the con could be, or if I had unfairly misjudged the boys. Was I imagining prejudices, and mistaking hospitality for hostility? It was a reminder of how far we had already come, and how exposed we might be.

Distance Driven 0miles